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How to make great fake ID...
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<blockquote data-quote="Brianwill" data-source="post: 196" data-attributes="member: 15"><p>1. Obtain necessary supplies from one of the following websites:</p><p><a href="http://www.arcadiaid.com/" target="_blank">http://www.arcadiaid.com</a></p><p><a href="http://www.poisonid.com/" target="_blank">http://www.poisonid.com</a></p><p><a href="http://www.idsupplystore.com/" target="_blank">http://www.idsupplystore.com</a></p><p>2. Find and edit the templates</p><p>Search a Peer-2-Peer network such as Kazaa, LimeWire or BitTorrent to find a template. By using Adobe Photoshop or Macromedia Fireworks, or a free program like GIMP, you should easily be able to edit the templates.</p><p>3. You should begin editing by changing the text fields. Most standard IDs use the font Arial that comes with Windows but if you wish to use specialty fonts that do not come with Windows (such as a font for signatures) you can see how to download and install them by reading this article: Install Fonts On Your PC.</p><p></p><p>Edit the eye and hair color fields as follows:</p><p>Eye Color- Indicate eye color abbreviation:</p><p>BLK - Black</p><p>GRY - Gray</p><p>MAR - Maroon</p><p>BLU - Blue</p><p>GRN – Green</p><p>PNK - Pink</p><p>BRO – Brown</p><p>HAZ - Hazel</p><p>MUL – Multicolor</p><p></p><p>Hair Color- Indicate hair color abbreviation:</p><p>BAL – Bald</p><p>BRO – Brown</p><p>SDY - Sandy</p><p>BLK - Black</p><p>GRY - Gray</p><p>WHI - White</p><p>BLN – Blonde</p><p>RED – Red</p><p></p><p>Also, if your ID has restrictions or endorsements here are the codes. Some are rarely used but others, like restriction code B are quite common. Here are a list of some of the more popular codes:</p><p></p><p>Restriction codes:</p><p>A - No Restriction</p><p>B - Corrective Lens</p><p>C - Mechanical Aids</p><p>D - Business Only</p><p>G - Daylight Only</p><p>H - Employer's Vehicle Only</p><p>J - Prosthetic Aid</p><p>Q - No Passengers</p><p>R - motorcycles 500 cc & under</p><p>S - to & From School</p><p>T - To & From Medical</p><p>U - all motorcycles except Class X</p><p>2 - Personal Vehicles Only</p><p></p><p>Endorsement codes are less common but include:</p><p>M - Motorcycle endorsement for any motorcycle regardless of engine displacement.</p><p>P - Passenger vehicles designed to carry 16 or more persons, including the driver.</p><p>T - Double/triple trailers allowed.</p><p>Y - Farm endorsement (Class A).</p><p>4. Then, scan in the photo and signature image files</p><p>You need to scan in a passport photo or other acceptable ID picture. Also scan in a signature. If the background of the passport photo does not match the background of the state id, you will need to do some editing.</p><p>5. After scanning the passport photo into the computer, the person's face will need to be separated from the background so it flows seamlessly with your ID card template. Using a program such as Adobe Photoshop, Macromedia Fireworks, or GIMP, provides you with an image editing tool called "Magic Wand". This tool will allow you to click a color in the image and it will select all surrounding colors that are similar or the same. There will be a slider that will allow you to select the amount of variance from the color you select. The higher the variance relates to more of the image that will be selected. Once the background is nearly fully selected without containing any of the person's face, press 'Delete' on your keyboard to erase it. You can then magnify the image and use the eraser tool to clean up around the person's face. At this point, zoom out and copy the image. It can be pasted onto your ID card template. It will then flow seamlessly into your template design and you can choose any background color you want!</p><p>For more detailed instructions on how to edit facial images for use on id cards, see this article: Edit Face Images for Use on a Fake ID.</p><p>6. Then, add a Barcode</p><p>The unusual-looking scrambled barcode on the back of most driver’s licenses is known as a PDF417 barcode. This barcode contains most of the information contained on the front of the license. By editing this readout, you can encode your information into this barcode. You can generate these barcodes by finding a free PDF417 Generator online. Below is the general sequence.</p><p></p><p></p><p>ANSI 6360263f02DL20393504EM02460010DLDAQ1414556</p><p>DAASMITH,JOHN,A</p><p>DABSMITH</p><p>DACJOHN</p><p>DADA</p><p>DAG423WILSON</p><p>DAIMIAMI</p><p>DAJFL</p><p>DAK044</p><p>DBB190922</p><p>DBA2480922</p><p>DAU511</p><p>DAW170</p><p>DAZBR</p><p>DAYBLU</p><p>DBC2</p><p>DBHN</p><p>DARC</p><p>DBD200684003</p><p>DASB</p><p>DBE1</p><p>DBIN</p><p>EMEMEWPFD</p><p>7. Add a Magnetic Stripe</p><p>If your license requires a magnetic stripe and you want it to be scannable, it can be encoded with an encoder. Generally these are very expensive and are difficult to find. However, you can get the EasyIDea Magnetic Stripe Encoder for less than $400 bucks. There are two types of magnetic stripes, HiCo and LoCo. HiCo and LoCo magnetic differ in that HiCo are much more difficult to demagnetize. The encoders for these typically were much more expensive than for LoCo. Most HiCo encoders encode LoCo stripes as well. The best way to program the stripe is to decode a working driver’s license, edit the data, and then program it back onto the stripe. Encode the magnetic stripe after the card is finished.</p><p>8. After editing is done, you can start printing</p><p>You will need to print on a synthetic paper. There are two types of synthetic paper that are nearly the same. Teslin and Artisyn paper are single layer, silica-filled, polyolefin printing substrate with unique microporous and temperature resistance features that make it the product of choice for laminated ID badges. Teslin is more expensive than Artisyn and much less versatile. If you want to use a desktop inkjet printer, you will achieve better results with Artisyn or Artisyn NanoExtreme™ synthetic paper. Printing on Teslin with an inkjet does not work well and tends to look grainy and smear. The Artisyn and Artisyn NanoExtreme™ are coated with chemicals to absorb the ink effectively. It is cheaper than Teslin, works well with all types of printers including inkjet and laser printers. It also tends to produce better print quality results. Teslin can be found at PoisonID.com and Artisyn can be found at ArcadiaID.com. Arcadia also sells perforated sheets that punch out in the size of the ID cards.</p><p>9. The next step is to select your printer. The preferred method is to use a pigmented based inkjet printer like an Epson printer with DuraBrite ink. This tends to produce incredible results and works well with Teslin even though it is not a laser printer. Better results are still achieved on Artisyn paper, and for the highest quality results Artisyn NanoExtreme™ should be used. If a pigmented ink printer is not available, a laser printer is still a good result. Laser printers produce sharp and clear results, but the ink tends to look waxy. Lastly, any dye-based inkjet printer will work fine. A dye-based inkjet printer is that standard color printer that most people have in their home. Again, if you use dye-based inks make sure to use Artisyn. You should print on highest quality photo settings.</p><p></p><p>Print on one sheet of paper, both front and back.</p><p>10. Then, the next step is cutting.</p><p>If you are using EasyIDea Microperforated Artisyn, you can skip this tedious step. Otherwise, start by cutting out the ID from the paper. Tracing the dimensions of the ID using a butterfly pouch is generally helpful. A paper cutter or X-Acto knife is also helpful. After cutting sheets by hand for a while, I decided I’d rather use the punch-outs from <a href="http://www.arcadiaid.com/" target="_blank">http://www.arcadiaid.com</a></p><p>11. Then you will need to laminate.</p><p>You must use thermal laminating in order to bond the butterfly pouch to the synthetic paper. Once laminated, the card will harden and resemble a PVC card. You must use a thermal (heat) pouch laminator. Avery, Arcadia EasyIDea, or GBC makes good ones that run around $50. If you can't afford a laminator then you can use a standard home iron. This is a little more tricky as you have to make sure the iron doesn't get so hot that it melts the laminate plastic but is still hot enough to bond the laminate to your ID. Also be sure the iron does not have any water loaded into it as this could damage the ink on the pre-laminated ID and the steam could warp the ID card.</p><p>12. Next, place the insert into the butterfly pouch. You must place the card into a carrier. Run the carrier through the laminator. Immediately following lamination, it is helpful to place the card under something flat like a book so that it cools flat.</p><p>13. Then, apply a hologram.</p><p>Generally, it is acceptable to use a generic hologram. Very few people actually examine the hologram and read what it says on it. I have had my fake for over two years with a generic hologram on it and I have never had a problem. If you’re concerned about making something that looks truly authentic, there are other methods to replicate holograms. The Shield and Key hologram is the most commonly used generic hologram and is a transparent rainbow hologram. This means that it looks transparent when looked at directly but when tilted to the sides the hologram lets off a rainbow spectrum. This is my generic hologram of choice when making fakes. This type of hologram is pretty much impossible to duplicate using the Pearl-Ex method below.</p><p>14. Making a Hologram</p><p>The gold holograms on many ID cards are called binary holograms. These holograms can be easily reproduced using Pearl-Ex paint and Photo-EZ paper.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brianwill, post: 196, member: 15"] 1. Obtain necessary supplies from one of the following websites: [URL='http://www.arcadiaid.com/']http://www.arcadiaid.com[/URL] [URL='http://www.poisonid.com/']http://www.poisonid.com[/URL] [URL='http://www.idsupplystore.com/']http://www.idsupplystore.com[/URL] 2. Find and edit the templates Search a Peer-2-Peer network such as Kazaa, LimeWire or BitTorrent to find a template. By using Adobe Photoshop or Macromedia Fireworks, or a free program like GIMP, you should easily be able to edit the templates. 3. You should begin editing by changing the text fields. Most standard IDs use the font Arial that comes with Windows but if you wish to use specialty fonts that do not come with Windows (such as a font for signatures) you can see how to download and install them by reading this article: Install Fonts On Your PC. Edit the eye and hair color fields as follows: Eye Color- Indicate eye color abbreviation: BLK - Black GRY - Gray MAR - Maroon BLU - Blue GRN – Green PNK - Pink BRO – Brown HAZ - Hazel MUL – Multicolor Hair Color- Indicate hair color abbreviation: BAL – Bald BRO – Brown SDY - Sandy BLK - Black GRY - Gray WHI - White BLN – Blonde RED – Red Also, if your ID has restrictions or endorsements here are the codes. Some are rarely used but others, like restriction code B are quite common. Here are a list of some of the more popular codes: Restriction codes: A - No Restriction B - Corrective Lens C - Mechanical Aids D - Business Only G - Daylight Only H - Employer's Vehicle Only J - Prosthetic Aid Q - No Passengers R - motorcycles 500 cc & under S - to & From School T - To & From Medical U - all motorcycles except Class X 2 - Personal Vehicles Only Endorsement codes are less common but include: M - Motorcycle endorsement for any motorcycle regardless of engine displacement. P - Passenger vehicles designed to carry 16 or more persons, including the driver. T - Double/triple trailers allowed. Y - Farm endorsement (Class A). 4. Then, scan in the photo and signature image files You need to scan in a passport photo or other acceptable ID picture. Also scan in a signature. If the background of the passport photo does not match the background of the state id, you will need to do some editing. 5. After scanning the passport photo into the computer, the person's face will need to be separated from the background so it flows seamlessly with your ID card template. Using a program such as Adobe Photoshop, Macromedia Fireworks, or GIMP, provides you with an image editing tool called "Magic Wand". This tool will allow you to click a color in the image and it will select all surrounding colors that are similar or the same. There will be a slider that will allow you to select the amount of variance from the color you select. The higher the variance relates to more of the image that will be selected. Once the background is nearly fully selected without containing any of the person's face, press 'Delete' on your keyboard to erase it. You can then magnify the image and use the eraser tool to clean up around the person's face. At this point, zoom out and copy the image. It can be pasted onto your ID card template. It will then flow seamlessly into your template design and you can choose any background color you want! For more detailed instructions on how to edit facial images for use on id cards, see this article: Edit Face Images for Use on a Fake ID. 6. Then, add a Barcode The unusual-looking scrambled barcode on the back of most driver’s licenses is known as a PDF417 barcode. This barcode contains most of the information contained on the front of the license. By editing this readout, you can encode your information into this barcode. You can generate these barcodes by finding a free PDF417 Generator online. Below is the general sequence. ANSI 6360263f02DL20393504EM02460010DLDAQ1414556 DAASMITH,JOHN,A DABSMITH DACJOHN DADA DAG423WILSON DAIMIAMI DAJFL DAK044 DBB190922 DBA2480922 DAU511 DAW170 DAZBR DAYBLU DBC2 DBHN DARC DBD200684003 DASB DBE1 DBIN EMEMEWPFD 7. Add a Magnetic Stripe If your license requires a magnetic stripe and you want it to be scannable, it can be encoded with an encoder. Generally these are very expensive and are difficult to find. However, you can get the EasyIDea Magnetic Stripe Encoder for less than $400 bucks. There are two types of magnetic stripes, HiCo and LoCo. HiCo and LoCo magnetic differ in that HiCo are much more difficult to demagnetize. The encoders for these typically were much more expensive than for LoCo. Most HiCo encoders encode LoCo stripes as well. The best way to program the stripe is to decode a working driver’s license, edit the data, and then program it back onto the stripe. Encode the magnetic stripe after the card is finished. 8. After editing is done, you can start printing You will need to print on a synthetic paper. There are two types of synthetic paper that are nearly the same. Teslin and Artisyn paper are single layer, silica-filled, polyolefin printing substrate with unique microporous and temperature resistance features that make it the product of choice for laminated ID badges. Teslin is more expensive than Artisyn and much less versatile. If you want to use a desktop inkjet printer, you will achieve better results with Artisyn or Artisyn NanoExtreme™ synthetic paper. Printing on Teslin with an inkjet does not work well and tends to look grainy and smear. The Artisyn and Artisyn NanoExtreme™ are coated with chemicals to absorb the ink effectively. It is cheaper than Teslin, works well with all types of printers including inkjet and laser printers. It also tends to produce better print quality results. Teslin can be found at PoisonID.com and Artisyn can be found at ArcadiaID.com. Arcadia also sells perforated sheets that punch out in the size of the ID cards. 9. The next step is to select your printer. The preferred method is to use a pigmented based inkjet printer like an Epson printer with DuraBrite ink. This tends to produce incredible results and works well with Teslin even though it is not a laser printer. Better results are still achieved on Artisyn paper, and for the highest quality results Artisyn NanoExtreme™ should be used. If a pigmented ink printer is not available, a laser printer is still a good result. Laser printers produce sharp and clear results, but the ink tends to look waxy. Lastly, any dye-based inkjet printer will work fine. A dye-based inkjet printer is that standard color printer that most people have in their home. Again, if you use dye-based inks make sure to use Artisyn. You should print on highest quality photo settings. Print on one sheet of paper, both front and back. 10. Then, the next step is cutting. If you are using EasyIDea Microperforated Artisyn, you can skip this tedious step. Otherwise, start by cutting out the ID from the paper. Tracing the dimensions of the ID using a butterfly pouch is generally helpful. A paper cutter or X-Acto knife is also helpful. After cutting sheets by hand for a while, I decided I’d rather use the punch-outs from [URL='http://www.arcadiaid.com/']http://www.arcadiaid.com[/URL] 11. Then you will need to laminate. You must use thermal laminating in order to bond the butterfly pouch to the synthetic paper. Once laminated, the card will harden and resemble a PVC card. You must use a thermal (heat) pouch laminator. Avery, Arcadia EasyIDea, or GBC makes good ones that run around $50. If you can't afford a laminator then you can use a standard home iron. This is a little more tricky as you have to make sure the iron doesn't get so hot that it melts the laminate plastic but is still hot enough to bond the laminate to your ID. Also be sure the iron does not have any water loaded into it as this could damage the ink on the pre-laminated ID and the steam could warp the ID card. 12. Next, place the insert into the butterfly pouch. You must place the card into a carrier. Run the carrier through the laminator. Immediately following lamination, it is helpful to place the card under something flat like a book so that it cools flat. 13. Then, apply a hologram. Generally, it is acceptable to use a generic hologram. Very few people actually examine the hologram and read what it says on it. I have had my fake for over two years with a generic hologram on it and I have never had a problem. If you’re concerned about making something that looks truly authentic, there are other methods to replicate holograms. The Shield and Key hologram is the most commonly used generic hologram and is a transparent rainbow hologram. This means that it looks transparent when looked at directly but when tilted to the sides the hologram lets off a rainbow spectrum. This is my generic hologram of choice when making fakes. This type of hologram is pretty much impossible to duplicate using the Pearl-Ex method below. 14. Making a Hologram The gold holograms on many ID cards are called binary holograms. These holograms can be easily reproduced using Pearl-Ex paint and Photo-EZ paper. [/QUOTE]
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